Italian restaurants…so many yet so few worth the price.

$35 for pasta. It better be good.

Did a deep dive into Sempre Oggi on the Upper West Side recently and it surprised me.

Brian, the general manager, warmly welcomed us and we settled in at the chef’s counter.

There was heat and a lot of action behind the counter of the 130-seat restaurant serving seasonal, market driven cuisine.

I cook quickly, but there was a female line cook that put me to shame and while I observed her methods I was surprised to learn that she added the pasta water at the very beginning of the pasta sauce journey.

I started off celebrating a great hair day with Verdicchio di Matelica, a lovely, fragrant, crisp dry white from Marche, Italy ($16).

Kicked things off with a delicious Panzanella Salad made with focaccia, sweet New Jersey heirloom tomatoes, red onion, cucumber and basil in a tomato vinaigrette ($25).

This was followed up with a fabulous Buckwheat Cannelloni stuffed with sheep’s milk ricotta and spinach.  The tomato sauce was sweet and thick and the cannelloni was piping hot and delectable ($29).

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The Halibut encrusted in almonds was outstanding, flaky and tender served with parslied fingerling potatoes ($39).

The restaurant has been transformed from the former resident, ‘Cesca, into a more contemporary space.

It is exciting for Upper West Siders to have a few new appealing restaurants.

Sempre Oggi translates to “always today,” a phrase that emphasizes the importance of gratitude for small everyday moments. For executive Chef Phillip Basone who previously worked at Upland, Le Crocodile and Barbuto, that sense of joy takes center stage in the dining room where he plans meals and oversees the food.

The restaurant is owned by Robert Guarino. He is the mastermind behind Hell’s Kitchen’s Marseille and Nizza, the Upper West Side’s Nice Matin, Dagon, Playa Betty’s as well as 5 Napkin Burger.

Sempre Oggi serves very good food offered at a higher price point then the other new kid on the block, Canto. Canto has soul and a very welcoming, invested owner who brings charm and character to the place.

The service at Sempre Oggi was adequate, no music and a rather personality void space.

The food will bring you back, but the experience was a bit hollow even though my dining companion was perfection.

Sempre Oggi 164 West 75th Street UWS New York City. Open Monday-Friday 4-10pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am-10pm. Reservations on Resy. A $95 family-style tasting menu is offered along with the a la carte menu.