Obviously there are many very good restaurants in the world. Few are exceptional,

I have been fortunate to be able to partake in sumptuous meals during my extensive travels.

Recently, I experienced a truly outstanding Chef’s Counter extravaganza at Maass at the Four Seasons Hotel and Residences in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

Maass is a contemporary wood-fire restaurant inspired by the techniques and ingredients of Europe and Japan.

Contemporary defies the name. Maass is named for Gustavo Maass who was an American architect working primarily in the Mediterranean Revival  style. Maass designed public buildings and private homes in and around Palm Beach from the 1920s until his death in 1964.

Chef/owner Ryan Ratino (Hive Hospitality) is a rock star. Not only is he young (33 years-old), driven, creative and successful he is a fabulous individual with an oversized desire to make sure every single diner has a memorable experience.

In fact, he has imbued his staff with his ethos that you must engage the customer not merely serve them.

Along with his numerous attributes, Chef Ratino is an advocate of environmentally-friendly practices and implements everyday sustainability measures.

It was as if I was witnessing an episode of The Bear with Chef directing the show and the expert staff echoing the  “Yes, Chef” chorus.

We were fortunate that Chef Ryan was at the restaurant as he splits his time between Maass and Jont, a two Michelin-starred restaurant in Washington, D.C. in addition to Bresca a one Michelin-star also in D.C.

He is the recipient of the Michelin Guide 2023 Young Chef Award for D.C.

In the near future, Chef Ryan is opening a fine dining establishment in Los Angeles in the former home of Bazaar in the SLS Hotel on La Cienaga Boulevard.

Sitting at the 14-seat Chef’s Counter, which offers a front-row immersive experience, is a must. Availability is Thursday-Saturday with seatings at 5:45 and 8:15pm.

The menu is like Christmas. You do not know what is coming until it is unwrapped.

We started the culinary journey with the plentiful amuse bouche.

The highlight being a strawberry macaron infused with rich foie gras.

Additional tantalizing treats included, Hearth Tomato, Furikake, Tomato Jelly Lobster, Meyer Lemon Wagyu Tartare and French Onion Leek.

The first course was a luscious Bluefin Tuna with strawberry, yuzu and radish.

The next course was almost to beautiful to eat comprised of Sea Urchin, chawanmushi, corn and kombucha.

California Striped Sea Bass with Koji, Buttermilk and Herb Oil followed.

For an additional $55 I added the Kaluga caviar offering which enhanced several dishes with the delicacy from China.

The Koshibuki Rice en Donabe was beyond incredible, a creamy mixture with superb flavors including Comte, Vin Jaune and Black Truffle.

Next in line was Dried Aged Duck with homemade Five Spice and Duck Bone Jus. I am not a duck fan, but this was tender and flavorful.

My husband is a pescatarian and his substitution was an amazing Hokkaido Sea Scallop.

By the way, the chef’s flexibility with substitutions is stellar.

Before sampling the main course, you are shown a set of gorgeous knives inscribed by a famous French tattoo artist. You make your personal selection…the first cut is the deepest.

 

The Australian Wagyu Short Rib with Gem Lettuce, Sauce Yakitori and an outrageous Brioche Donut was off the charts.

Jealousy did play a part in my husband’s Lobster dish. Both choices were unbelievable.

The desserts were creative and delectable.

The Citrus Tasting was very refreshing and quite unusual, including a devastatingly delicious Yuzu Lemonade Bomb and Mochi Taco.

The party in your mouth continued with outrageous Yuzu, Olive Oil and Coconut Cream Bon Bons, Fermented Banana Pie and Raspberry Pate de Fruit

The innovative flatware and crockery are hand picked from around the world. The service and ambiance is top notch.

Of note, I have never witnessed such an immaculate kitchen.

Along with the $195 Tasting Menu you can also opt for the wine pairings and innovative  cocktails as well as dine at the tables which offer an a la carte menu.

Maass over delivers and provides an evening to remember.

MAASS Restaurant at The Four Seasons 525 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard, Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Open daily 4-10pn. Reservations on OpenTable.com. Valet and street parking.