There’s a little stretch of Carmine Street where time slows down, your cholesterol rises in the best possible way and everyone suddenly starts whispering in vaguely Parisian accents.

Welcome to the recently opened Le Chené, a French restaurant so intimate and charming it makes you question your life choices…mainly, why you don’t eat here every week.

Step inside and voilà!

Frédérique Mortier d’Aumont, another Parisian in New York and the founder of Fred Interiors, lent her distinctive aesthetic touch to the restaurant, featuring arched doorways, a curved bar that feels like it belongs in an old movie and high-end artwork that silently judges your handbag.

The contemporary artwork is courtesy of Christophe Van de Weghe, owner of Van de Weghe Gallery on the Upper East Side and an investor in the restaurant.

The vibe is effortless chic with just enough demure lighting to make everyone at the table look ten years younger.

And then there’s the staff which is outstanding, showcasing equal parts charming, well-informed and genetically incapable of serving bad wine.

The sommelier described each bottle like it had a dramatic past. He seductively lured me in by mentioning he had one glass left of 2022 Meursault Fabien Coche. The small sample that he offered was so enticing I could not refuse the $40 indulgence. Every sip of the cool, brilliant food wine enhanced the delectable meal, especially the fish course.

My husband selected a marvelous 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Côte d’Or Arnaud Baillot ($29).

The bartender deserves his own round of applause.

We were a tad early so we took a moment to lounge at the attractive bar.

A proper mixologist, he served up what may be the best dirty martini in Manhattan…icy cold, perfectly salty with just enough olive brine ($22).

And the food? Mon dieu.

The table was attractively set and guests are treated to warm, freshly baked bread from Bread Story with divine meadow butter from Kriemhild Dairy Farms in Madison County, N.Y.

Bread is no longer complimentary at most U.S. restaurants. It is a given in France so for the customer it is a lovely gesture.

The Uni Toast was scandalously rich and buttery, like biting into a secret. The rich Japanese Uni melted, whispered and vanished, leaving only joy ($25).

The Potato Rosti bite was crisp and tasty ($9).

The Oeuf Mayonnaise was a surprise selection for me as I detest the yolk of an egg, but the server painted an extremely appealing case so I succumbed.

The dish was beautifully presented. The preparation involves cooking the eggs so they’re jammy and then topping with a mixture of raw and confit tuna with light mayo and topping with shavings of French cheese. The tuna is a fabulous element ($25).

The Crab Thermidor, a twist on the classic Lobster Thermidor, was beautifully presented. Chef Duchene swaps out the crustacean of choice by stuffing a whole crab shell with crab meat mixed with a vadouvan-perfumed béchamel and cheese.

The Striped Bass with Scallops came bathed in a sauce so divine I briefly considered asking for a spoon. This was seriously one of our favorite fish dishes ever ($46).

The crispy Pommes Frites were perfection ($16).

The Tart Tatin with the deliciously mysterious Hay Ice Cream was light, crisp and finished with a devastating flourish of creme fraiche ($18).

Chef Duchene is a creative marvel in the kitchen.

In 2019, at the age of 23, Alexia Duchene became one of the youngest contestants in history to reach the semi-finals on the French version of Top Chef. Now, just shy of 30, she has opened her first restaurant after stints at Brooklyn’s Fulgurances and Margot.

The business partnership includes her charismatic husband, Ronan Duchene Le May who commands the front of the house.

Le Chené isn’t just a restaurant. It is a little fever dream of France tucked into the West Village.

Come for the martinis and wine, stay for the cuisine and leave wondering if you could actually pull off red lipstick and a scarf more often.

Le Chene 76 Carmine Street West Village New York City. Open Tuesday-Saturday 5-10pm. Reservations on Resy.