Titillating, Tantalizing, Terrific Tulum…

 

Tulum Beach
Tulum Beach

Re-entry is rough.

I haven’t been in Los Angeles in months. The hardest part of coming back to LA was walking in the door and not having our beloved, recently departed dog, Berkeley, present to warmly welcome us. Madison went ballistic and seeing her was thrilling, but no Berkeley was a bitter pill to swallow.

Yesterday, we had to leave paradise at 4;30am as the Cancun airport is 90 minutes from Tulum. We were still basking in the mellow mood that embraced us for nearly one week in Tulum and then reality struck. The chinless man seated in David’s row on the plane slipped past him and went into the airplane bathroom barefoot. I knew then that my vacation was over and the cruel realities of life had entered my consciousness.

Let me take you back to a happier, more sanitary time…our getaway to Tulum, Mexico. We departed NYC and had a relatively smooth flight to Cancun. We landed, our luggage checked for contraband and then we were whisked away to turquoise waters and white sand on the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula in the Caribbean Sea.

beach tulum

The BeTulum Beach and Spa Resort  is a beautiful boutique hotel on what we consider is the best section of beach in Tulum. The rooms are nestled in a jungle environment. It took about 60 seconds to reach the enticing, warm ocean and that is where we settled for days on end.

Our Table
Our Table

We were up by 6am and walking for miles on the whitest, brightest beach by 6:30am. Sunrise in the Caribbean is a chart topper. We were so rom com…we established “our table” on the beach and made sure we timed meals and cocktail breaks according to the the availability of  “our table.”

fruit tulum

Every morning we indulged in breakfast Americano…unoriginal moniker, but delicious results. The fruit was amazing and eggs with black beans and a dollop of cream, homemade croissants, granola and yogurt fortified us for a day of sun and surf.

Americano Breakfast
Americano Breakfast

We secured the same beach bed daily which was located steps from the water’s edge. An hour would pass and we were unaware of how long we were swimming in the warm, clear blue water. My lower lip would painfully transmit a warning signal. Even with sunscreen and hat, the whiteout would penetrate protective layers.

beach bed2
Our Beach Bed

We begrudgingly took a morning off from the beauty and splendor of doing absolutely nothing, but eating, swimming and reading to visit a cenote and the Tulum Ruins.

ruins tulum
Tulum Mayan Ruins

The Tulum Ruins are the only Mayan city built on a coast and was one of the few protected by a limestone wall. Most prominent among the remaining structures is the Castillo, or castle, which is perched on the edge of a limestone cliff, overlooking the Caribbean coast. Another highlight is the Temple of the Frescoes. We tackled the downward hill and took a gander at the ruins from the beautiful beach that borders the site.

Cenotes Sun Actun
Sac-Actun Cenote
Sun Actun Cenotes
Sac-Actun Cenote

We then journeyed on a single dirt jungle road to a cenote that has only been open a few years, Sac-Actun. Climb down a ladder and you have entered another world…an underground paradise of rock formations, stalactites and stalagmites where you can snorkel and scuba dive. We navigated the mineral infused soft, cool, clear waters for over an hour, taking in the unique formations and swooping bats.

Spa At BeTulum
Spa At BeTulum

We headed home, read for hours and then surrendered our bodies at the tranquil and elegant spa at BeTulum. Individual elevated casitas for personal and couples massages and soaking tubs are dispersed over lovely grounds. They also offer facials, yoga and healing waters.

Spa BeTulum Healing Waters
Spa BeTulum Healing Waters

Nocturnal activities consisted of wonderful beachfront dinners. I highly recommend only eating on the ocean side as the restaurants on the jungle side were devilishly hot…perspiring at dinner is not advised.

Posada Margherita
Posada Margherita

Stay tuned next week for my review of the fab Posada Margherita, an Italian restaurant owned by the delightful Alessandro Carozzino and hands down, the best dining spot in Tulum.

People also flock to Hartwood on the jungle side. Hartwood is a delicious restaurant, but you do pay an admission fee. so to speak. People start lining up at 4 and 5pm for a 6pm opening. The wait in interminable, the hostess snotty so just head straight to the divine Posada Margherita and inhale the ocean breezes and delectable homemade pastas and perfectly prepared camarones (giant prawns).

We also had a romantic evening completely alone on the beach on the new property owned by BeTulum. Casa Magna was reputedly built by drug kingpin Pablo Escobar and the he could not have chosen a more desirable location. The place has been reincarnated again as a small resort hotel.

The property was originally confiscated by the authorities. The house rises between a dense jungle and an unspoiled patch of sand. There are eight master suites with massive poured concrete colorfully tiled bathtubs. All but one have ocean views.

Casa Magna
Casa Magna

Chef Rodrigo whipped up a special meal and we dined under the stars and reveled in the peace and quiet. The soundtrack was provided by the Caribbean and the atmospheric lighting was courtesy of a evening sky bursting with stars.

Seared Tuna At Casa Magna
Seared Tuna At Casa Magna

I did not realize how much the pressures of life had infiltrated my mind and body until I finally succumbed and did absolutely nothing. Tulum was the perfect prescription and the ideal place to celebrate 30 incredible years of marital bliss.

The breathtakingly astonishing Caribbean getaway was generously and thoughtfully provided by my amazing mother and daughter. Thank you mom and Courtny for the awesome gift.

Tulum is tantalizing, titillating and worth a repeat visit.

Pool BeTulum
Pool BeTulum

6 Comments

  1. Paula Lopez says:

    Hmmmm soooo lovely!

  2. amazing amazing..love it there and I absolutely love the Italian restaurant – we were there a few years ago….

  3. As always great article Toby, glad you enjoyed Tulum!
    Federico

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