I have been a long time fan of chef Josef Centeno.

Last Saturday I decided to revisit Orsa & Winston, Chef Centeno’s upscale restaurant in downtown LA.

He also owns Bar Ama and Baco Mercat, all within a one-block radius.

I have become a proponent of weekend brunch exploration.

Reservations are obtainable, no overcrowding or long waits and many dinner dishes are included on the brunch menu.

We made our way downtown during a substantial rainstorm…always a challenge on LA freeways.

The parking God was in our corner as we found a spot in front of Orsa & Winston…unheard of.

The decor at the intimate restaurant has changed. The interior is uncomplicated yet chic.

We had a reservation but chose to sit at the counter facing into the kitchen action.

We needed guidance as the Asian-Italian fusion cuisine features some ingredients that are not part of our vernacular.

Evelyn did a stellar job.

The first course was a furiously whipped, utterly marvelous Tuna Tonnato with shoyu egg, capers accompanied by a fabulous pan rustic from Gjusta ($9).

I selected a wonderfully effervescent Prosecco that hit the spot and was a perfect accompaniment ($12).

Next we indulged in a delightful Escabeche of Mushroom Salad, featuring chanterelle, maitake and king mushrooms that were lightly pickled with crisp lettuce and a complimentary dressing ($9).

The Seafood Porridge consisted of creamy satsuki rice and pecorino, accented with divine Santa Barbara uni and flawlessly seared scallops ($26).

The Soufflé was mouthwatering with a dash of Old Bank honey, a dollop of delectable mascarpone and powered sugar. It was not sweet and went perfectly with the chosen dishes ($12).

Still curious since everything was amazing, we ordered the exquisitely sourced fresh Raspberry and Marscapone Sando on homemade milk bread ($12).

We had an interesting, informative culinary discussion with Evelyn and Michael, effusive members of the highly competent, friendly, warm staff.

Orsa & Winston also offers an enchanting 5 course dinner menu ($85) as well as a snack menu.

Orsa & Winston has been around for 51/2 years and remains a top notch dining experience as well as deliciously inventive.

Orsa & Winston 122 West Fourth Street Los Angeles, California. Dinner Tuesday-Friday 6-11pm, Saturday  5:30-11pm, Lunch Tuesday-Friday 12-2pm, Brunch Saturday and Sunday 11am-2:30pm. Reservations on OpenTable.com.