Modern Mexican Misses The Mark…NYC Restaurant Review


A chef I respect told me that Corima was the best new restaurant he had eaten in lately.

That was enough to make me book.


I chose the fixed price Chef Counter option rather than the bar or an a la carte table.

Upon arrival in Manhattan’s Chinatown where all the new, hip restaurants are opening, I found a parking spot directly in front of Corima.

I was a winner already and eager to take on Corima, a new modern Mexican establishment.

The welcome was warm and the entire staff a delight including Chef and Owner, Fidel Caballero.

Caballero first started Corima as a pop-up in 2021 after spending time cooking in Shanghai, as well as a Michelin-star San Sebastián restaurant and New York City’s Contra.

I loved how they organically transformed the prior bus station, allowing the original bones to shine through.

The highlight of the evening was the Gin Uni Sour. A deliciously creative cocktail made with gin, uni, egg white and lemon, well worth the visit ($23).

The six-seat chef’s counter provides a view into all the theatrics of composing the visually impressive meal. The ten courses plus amuse bouche and multiple desserts are served on lovely Mexican  pottery. The seasonal menu was as follows:

Amuse Bouche
Smoked Eel & Kampachi Mille-Feuille, Nori, Avocado Leaf
Branzino Collar, Chintextle, Cascade
Corn Soba, Skatewing Dashi, Dulse
Cuttlefish, Liver Pipian, Pork Skin, Pataxtle
Endive, Chrysanthemum, Surf Clam, Hazelnut Nogada
Veal Brain Char Siu, Cilantro Germolata, Bay Leaf
Hake, Macomber Turnip, Sauerkraut Chilmole
Sourdough Flour Tortilla, Recado Negro Butter
Nopal Sorbet, Sorrel, Kiwiberry
Gamete, Guayaba, Mango
Chocolate Bonbon, Black Sesame Praline

Some items were better than others. The Waygu Steak they were generous enough to substitute for the Rabbit was delicious. I was so busy thanking them for the bunny substitute that I failed to take a photo of the evening’s main course.

Nothing was scrumptious despite the creativity, complexity of each dish and elaborate, meticulous plating.

The $110 menu was not money well spent.

The menu is ever changing and perhaps another night it would be better as the intent and performance are duly noted and appreciated.


Corima 11 Allen Street New York City. Open Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10:30pm. Reservations on Resy.

 


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