There’s a rowdy new Rebelle in town ready to stir up the restaurant scene.
The success of next door neighbor Pearl & Ash, has given birth to Rebelle, a modern french restaurant with a focus on wine.
Pearl & Ash owners, Branden McRill and Patrick Cappiello, have transformed the former R Bar space into an industrial-chic restaurant on the Bowery with exposed brick and marble countertops.
The open kitchen is to die for and is helmed by Daniel Eddy, a native New Yorker and formerly chef de cuisine of Spring restaurant in Paris.
We were interested in dining at Rebelle because we have enjoyed fabulous meals at Spring.
The Rebelle team has replicated the Parisienne movement of young diners in Paris who avoid the dressy, stuffy dining rooms and instead embrace restaurants like Bones, Pierre Sang, Les Enfants Rouges where the kitchen is helmed by young, talented chefs with a focus on the meal, not the dress code.
I called for a reservation on Friday night, but the all too familiar lament of 5:30 and 10:30 was dispatched over the phone.
My husband was at his Times Square office so we decided to try for the bar. We arrived around 8:30, were warmly welcomed by no less than three hostesses, and immediately found two seats at the bar.
After being ignored by the bartender who was preoccupied with trying to get the bills paid, we asked for the wine list. He called in back up who was a bit underwhelming. I inquired about wines from Langedoc as it is an under appreciated wine region close to our home in Blaye. The price point was also reasonable.
It is a good thing we sampled first because the wine was terrible…tasted like the inside of a barn.
Between the lack of charisma displayed by the bartender and the barnyard wine, we were about to dodge the Rebelle when the hostess strolled over and offered us a table. We relented.
We are so glad we stayed. The night improved exponentially.
Moving forward with the libation, we ended up having a lively discussion with the lovely sommelier, Kim, and settled on a red blend from Haut Medoc, Chateau Citran 2009.
The wine list is comprised of over 1500 labels, focusing on France and American wines and designed by partner and sommelier, Patrick Cappiello who was named Sommelier of the Year 2014 by Wine & Food Magazine.
Our waiter, John, turned out to be a real asset, as well and the evening was definitely looking up.
The menu is short and succinct. There are four sections. The 1st (appetizer) consists of leek vinaigrette, fluke and lamb tartare all priced at $12. 2nd, asparagus, scallop and sweetbread for $15, 3rd (main) beef bourguignon monkfish, chicken, pork, duck breast ($24) and the 4th (dessert) rhubarb, Paris brest, chocolate, grape clafoutis priced at $8.
We started with fluke prepared with brown butter, sherry, caper and lemon. The fluke was tender and flavorful.
This was followed by the leek vinaigrette with dijon, leek ask and a soft-boiled egg…very french, fresh and delicious.
#2 was amazing…highlight of the meal. The scallops with sea urchin with ginger creme, cabbage and mint was off the charts.
I was a bit dubious about the asparagus because, I prefer big spears (don’t we all) but the asparagus were perfectly prepared with spring onion, maple, hazelnut and herbs.
We shared the monkfish which was lovely, but I felt the weakest dish. I prefer a bit more sear to my fish. The monkfish was lightly cooked. The accompaniment of Jersulem artichoke, hen of the wood mushrooms and mussels were a wonderful compliment to the dish.
John felt desserts by pastry chef Jessica Yang (formerly of Per Se and Guy Savoy) was in order so that we could sample 1-4. We selected the rhubarb with lemongrass jelly, biscuit and vanilla ice cream. It was light and tasty.
We ended up having a fabulous meal and walked all the way to the upper west side from the Bowery.
Obviously, Gene Pitney who wrote, “He’s a rebel and he’ll never ever be any good” didn’t eat at Rebelle.
Rebelle 218 Bowery between Prince and Spring. Open for dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-11 and Friday, Saturday 5:30-Midnight. Reservations at OpenTable.
A bit of entertainment while you savor the Rebelle review:
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