Wander down an innocuous midtown block on East 43rd Street.

Enter a stark office building.

Descend two flights of gray metal stairs.

Step through the open basement door and enter a muted restaurant brimming with hundreds of bottles of sake, fresh sushi and delectable Japanese cuisine.

You will experience a delightfully delicious evening in a secret Japanese hideaway.

It is not necessary to board a plane and take a 14 hour flight.

You only need to reserve at Sakagura.

Even after 21 years, you must book Sakagura several weeks ahead.

We were led to a central table, but requested the long bar.

I am delighted that we did as our server was the enchanting, Ai, the Sakagura sake sommelier, who has been educating patrons for five years.

We sampled several sakes and decided on Tsukasabotan which was smooth as silk with a clean, dry, elegant flavor.

As with French wine, we were schooled about the different sake regions.

Sakagura is a pioneer in introducing sake to New York City.

The sake from southern Japan is beautifully presented and served in attractive cups.

We selected Sashimi Moriawase, assorted sushi with salmon, red snapper, tuna and a very creamy and delicious uni embellished with large shiso leaves and radish (15 pieces/$60).

Next up a refreshing Hirame Ponzu with thinly slice fluke sashimi topped with grated daikon radish dressed with a citrus vinaigrette ($14).

The Agedashi Tofu was light as air coated in panko batter and deep fried served in a tasty soy sauce infused broth ($9).

The Octopus was tender and deliciously dressed in a wasabe sauce gently resting on a shiso leaf.

Surumeika Zukeyaki, grilled squid, brushed with soy sauce was tender and tasty ($12).

The Ebi Stick with deep fried shrimp, nori seaweed and shiso leaf served with a miso sauce was crispy with delicate shrimp, but was my least favorite as I like my sushi unfettered ($10).

We toasted the meal with another sake selection and Ai presented the sake in special cups.

The atmosphere is relaxed and intimate, the food tantalizing, the sake superb, the staff including the gracious manager and the charming Ai, welcoming and accommodating.

Kanpai?

Sakagura 43rd Street between Second and Third Avenue New York City. Open for Dinner  Monday-Thursday 6pm-12am, Friday and Saturday 6pm-1am, Sunday 6-11pm. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:20pm. Reservations on OpenTable.